Garlic – allium sativum

Garlic growing and varieties is a much discussed, complex and aged topic and many of the variations in variety and taste are really subtle and mostly hard to identify. But then when you get some good stuff and work out how to cook or eat it – it makes you happy.

My understanding from eating, growing and reading about garlic is that there are about 10+ core distinct types and many intermediate varieties. The main two groupings are the hard neck and soft neck based on whether they flower or not. Although this is based also on DNA profiling as well (which is way more complex than expected) – I find the common idea of saying hard necks are the best and degrading the soft necks is pointless as they all have such a range of flavours and uses for eating and cooking.

There are both subtle and distinct differences in clove colour, number, arrangement, size and skin type, flowering curl style and scape shape, and general plant size.

Ideally in a temperate climate you plant them in early autumn so they get time to put on some growth before winter. In hard winters you can plant them in late autumn so the leaves don’t get too damaged. Root and leaf growth are brought on pretty much immediately by any contact with water or a long period in the cold like a fridge etc. But i have found having a good long vegetative growth period through autumn, winter and spring makes for bigger bulbs regardless of eventual bulb size. Planting after early spring can get a bit risky.

The most important thing is that they get a cold period (vernalising) in winter to get the flowering stalk started before the day length encourages the formation of the bulbs (or enlarged leaf bases). Some references seem to say about 2-10c degrees for two weeks or so is about enough – (thats also about what most peoples fridges run at.)

If any of these things don’t happen right you can either get single bulbs or weird growths on the scapes or the bulbs form strange shapes. They are usually still edible but not as attractive to look at.

Its often easiest to tell the main varieties apart when they grow and the flower stem (scape) forms and then compare that with the colour and arrangement of the cloves and skins, and then also the size and colour of the bulbils that form on the flower stem.

The flower stem should usually be cut on most of your plants once some have formed to encourage larger bulbs.

Some varieties take ages to get enough to crop as they have small numbers of cloves to replant. The bulbils, if you get any, can take about two years to form decent sized bulbs.

You need to taper off watering for 4-5 weeks before harvesting in early to mid summer and let them dry out a bit. You just lift them as whole plants and then just hang them upside down or lay them out on a rack to dry for a about a week or more to mature. This is important as the plant draws back moisture from the stems into the bulb and they mature and dry out the external bulb skin. This maturing process is important to the final taste. When they have dried out and the skins are flaky and white or transparent you can trim the roots and the plant tops off. If they are ‘softnecks’ with no hard flower scape they can be tied or platted together to hang more for later use. If they are ‘hardnecks’ with a stiff flower scape then usually you trim them.

Make sure you save enough of the big ones for planting next season.

So – they need moisture and good soil for initial growing, a cold period to flower and bulb up, moisture and sun warmth for spring growth, and then a dry period in early to mid summer as they mature.

Cold is ALWAYS what essentially triggers the initial root growth but the moisture is what pushes the growth on and cold dry soil will not yield much growth at all. I’m guessing this follows their native environment where the new growth corresponds with snow melt over them. I would guess also that this is why some varieties take a much longer time between the cold trigger and then the green shoots coming up.

The root systems are actually quite big and grow fast at the beginning and they do need some space to spread (About 20cm between at least). I often start them in small pots so I can get them going well – especially if they are ‘collectable’ and you have small numbers and want to make sure they do well. But planting out cloves direct in a field in small holes poked with a stick is easiest when you want large numbers. They generally have few problems or pests. And they do grow ok if you just put a small number in a large pot. That is how I have increased numbers of the more unusual ones to begin with.

Here’s a small garlic plot that has just been tilled and planted out in mid autumn with some cloves and some seedlings.

The main varieties or types I’m growing are listed here with my general observations – some I’m growing are identified varieties from various reliable suppliers but some are just unnamed collected ones that have been gifts from people or obtained at markets.

 Artichoke

Artichoke – medium sized mutli layered cloves that tend to be white/purple tinged and average taste. Very rarely flowers if ever. Leaf tends to grow horizontal. (softneck)

Silverskin – like artichoke with shiny gold or brown clove skin. Leaf tends to grow vertical.  (softneck)

 Red Rocambole

Rocambole – small colourful bulbs with a single ring of cloves with excellent taste raw and cooked. The scape usually twists once or twice in a circle.

Creole – Single ring of small to medium sized colourful bulbs and cloves. Scape usually makes a U shape pointing down. Usually tasty raw and cooked.

 Purple Stripe

Purple Stripe – medium to large colourful bulbs with purple tinges and stripes, usually single ring of cloves but can have an extra layer when growing well. The scape tends to bend over into a curve or sometimes almost circle. There are other variations including glazed and marbled purple stripe but I cannot tell the subtle differences tbh. They usually all taste great both raw and cooked.

 Porcelain

Porcelain – Big white bulb and cloves. Usually only about 4-6 cloves. Big green plant that can get up to 1.5-2 metres. Big twisty flower scape. Usually a big crazy strong taste.

Asiatic – Small to medium sized darkish coloured cloves in a tight circle. Usually tending to hot strong flavours and strong reliable growth. Curvy scape.

Turban – pretty much the same as purple stripe or asiatic but with a tight bumpy turban shaped scape end.

There are lots of others… and many that are very hard to differentiate.

Rocambole and Creole generally are the most pleasant tasting for raw eating. The purple stripes are the most reliable growers and have an all round very nice flavour/taste. Asiatic tend to be the spicy hot ones. Porcelain look big and impressive but tend to have a crazy strong sulphur taste so are less useful.

Raw garlic has significant health benefits – cook or preserve it in any way and the main important chemicals are likely completely destroyed. Apparently it is dangerous to preserve it in oil due to bacterial issues.

Here are three books on Garlic I would recommend reading about garlic. They cover most of the main issues you are likely to want to know about in growing and eating garlic.

The Complete Book of Garlic: A Guide for Gardeners, Growers, and Serious Cooks – Ted Jordan Meredith

Garlic: The Mighty Bulb – Natasha Edwards

Growing Great Garlic: The Definitive Guide for Organic Gardeners and Small Farmers – Ron L. Engeland